After our initial concerns about the levels of the Kaituna that first day in NZ, we were told today by the local Kaituna raft operators(more on those idiots later)..that "Yeah sure its runnable!" "Someone just ran it"...and "Go for it!"
So going on their thumbs up(up their asses is more like it)...we "went for it".
Turns out we were later to discover that the Kaituna was running at 3 friggin times its normal runnable volume.
Thats ALOT of water my friends, and it changes the whole way a river runs and creates a whole host of sticky traps just waiting to snare the unsuspecting riverboarder.
The plan was to run Kaituna and then we were to try our hands at the infamous Huka falls. But a call to the Huka hotline told us that the Huka was at level 290. What does that mean? Well, its considered "runnable" at 40 to 90 tops. It was once run by a kayaker at 160 who barely lived to tell the tale. So the Huka was out. Too bad the Kaituna didn't have a hotline.
More time on Kaituna then we ignorantly thought. Yay! We could run it a few times. Once to scout(since it was unscoutable from above) and the next few times to film. Done.
As it turned out, we only ran it once. And we all barely made it through that first time. No joke this time. It was for real folks. We were really lucky.
The Kaituna basically runs through a jungle, so alot of it is under the dark cover of the jungle canopy. It makes for a beautiful run, but one that is impossible to scout from above. Its also very twisty turny, with a series of falls and slides that eventually spill out over Tutea Falls, a 22 foot drop into the amazing sink hole surrounded by a wall of foliage covered rock. Its a very spiritual Maori place, and all of us were very excited to plunge over those falls into that aqua marine pool.
But it doesn't end there. After the drop into that pool, you go through another series of twists and turns and slides before you have to get out.
And I DO mean GET OUT.
For at the end of the run is TROUT FALLS, which has broken many an ankle and claimed more then 18 lives. There is a take out point about 30 yards from Trout Falls. Miss that, and you have one last chance around the bend - but its harder to get to and risky. I knew I had to hit the first take out.
We decided to do the first run without cameras, so there is no documentation of our one and only attempt of Kaituna or of anything that transpired. So my words are my only document.
We had no idea of the volume. We had no idea what was about to happen. We had been told(once again by the local rafting company boneheads) that we should run the river right, especially after the old power station. There was a big concrete block in the middle of the river, and we were told to stay right at ALL costs. Going left there was suppose to be a bunch of twisted metal girders.
Go right, and you go over "Okere Falls", which are a couple of falls close together. No problem we were told.
Docta P was first. Then Kev. Then Ice, and then me. Up until that point, the Kaituna was fun and choppy. But you could tell we were moving FAST.
Suddenly we were at the concrete block. Docta P went right. Kev got sucked left and dissappeared. Ice turned around and frantically pointed right. He just made it. But despite all my kicking, I too went left. SHIT!
Thats when I went over a rocky slide and went under. Before I did go under, I noticed the twisted mass of metal girders to my left. Then I was under and being tossed around violently.
When I popped out, much to my relief, I was past the girders...but still moving fast. Kev was clinging to a root on the right side of the river. On the Kaituna, there are NO rocks to climb onto. No shore to paddle to. You are walled in on either side by sheer foliage covered walls.
I made it over to kev, and grabbed a root. The current was so strong, that occassionally the root you were holding would snap, or you'd lose your grip, and you'd go sliding down the river until you could grab another root.
Kev & I were trying to figure out if Ice and Docta P went past us when we were under water or were they in trouble above us. I was alittle disoriented from my ride under water. There was no way to get upstream to find out, so we waited a bit. Kev got swept out and I managed to pull him back.
Eventually though, we had to do something, and letting go was the only option. Which I did, followed by Kev...and was immediately swept out again. I didn't know exactly what was ahead, or how long before the 22 foot fall, so I just held onto my trusty Rocky Mountain Riverboard and tried to enjoy the ride.
But with our seperation from Ice & Docta P, the rest of the ride took on an ominous and scarier then usual tone.
There were a few nasty points too. Another small waterfall that kept pulling me back and wouldn't let me get away. I finally relaxed since kicking was futile, and eventually I was spit out of its grasp enough to continue down the river. I also turned a sharp corner once and hit a rock on a small slide that threw me off my board and slammed me in the thigh(where else?!!) pretty hard. But I was able to right myself and make it to the river's edge. I looked around, but Kev was nowhere in sight. I waited for a long time, and was about to go again, when Kev appeared around the corner.
We both stayed at the rivers edge holding onto roots trying to catch our breaths. The 22 foot falls had to be coming up soon. Thats when I noticed we were being SWARMED by mosquitoes.
Now when faced with a 22 foot waterfall or a swarm of blood sucking skeeters...I'll choose the falls EVERY time.
So I let go and was heading downstream again. The river became real twisty and got really dark. I knew Tutia Falls came out of a dark patch of jungle, so I knew I was getting close. I remember someone saying there was a rock cutout before the falls, that you could pause at. But I didn't know which side.
As I turned a bend in the river I saw the edge of the falls. I also saw the rock cut out on the right, just 10 feet from the falls, and I kicked like mad for it.
MaDe it! Again, Kev was nowhere in sight. There was no way out but down. I tried to crane my neck over the edge to see if Ice or Docta P were in the pool below, because thats where they surely would be waiting for us - but I couldn't see anything.
I took out my whistle from my American Rescue vest and blew...but there was no way anyone would hear it over the roar of the falls. Just then Kev started floating by. I reached out and grabbed him into the cut out. There was barely enough room for the two of us.
Again we caught our breath. Ok. WHO goes first? Ha!
It was decided Kev was to go first since he had the rescue line. I think I heard him mumble a prayer, and then off he went yelling "YAHOOooooo!" as he plunged over the edge and out of sight and sound.
Then nothing. Did he get clear? Did he get sucked under that nasty undercut rock Ice was so worried about? Again I was thinking how useful some waterproof walkie talkies would be in this situation.
If I go now, will I hit him? Or end up getting my neck snapped under that rock? And where the hell were Ice & Docta P???
Just then I saw Kev's helmet on the far end of the pool. So...he had made it. Good news. But if Ice and Docta P weren't with him, then something DID happen to them, and I had to get down there ASAP.
That sense of urgency, helped me, and I simply swam out and over the edge yelling my own...um..."unique" battle cry as I plunged downward.
Its a strange feeling going over a waterfall...especially such a high one as this. You SEE things, but in quick flashes. It all happens so fast, that its hard to take it all in. You hear the thundering sound of water and then it all goes dark. You have hit the bottom. Thats the scary part, because I was imagining being sucked under that rock cut out, and having my "neck snapped" as Docta P put it.
But just as I was thinking this, I popped up and out...clear of the nasty rock. Some kayakers watching from the observation deck later told me that I was under for a ridiculous amount of time.
I paddled over to Kev whose face was scratched up pretty bad. He was wearing a Chinese motorcycle helmet with a communist star on it for this trip. Apparrently it had been knocked off twice on this run. My helmet by Gath with the flip up visor was performing amazingly well. Like I said, the ONLY part of my body getting hammered on this trip were my thighs. Guess thats the price you pay for riverboaring when you're over 6'4" tall.
Back to reality. Ice & Docta P were obviously in trouble. We decided to proceed to the take out to see if they were down there. Once again, I let go and headed down the river. There were more twists and turnss and some scary drops. The water was moving so fast. Thats when I realized the first take out was suppose to be river left...and I was river right....FAR RIGHT.
I started kicking as hard as I could. My thighs were so sore from the last few days of pounding, but I gave it all I had. Just then I saw the take out coming up. I was going to make it!
So what do I do? I stop kicking.
Word to the wise. DON'T stop kicking when crossing a river. Just because a take out is within reach doesn't mean you can slack off.
Because as soon as I stopped kicking, bye bye take out point. It sped past me in a flash. I managed to grab the very LAST root sticking out on the rivers edge before it turned around the corner.
My board was being pulled behind me and the leash went taught. There was TREMENDOUS force pulling me, and I realized with horror, that there was no way I could hold on. And I couldn't let go, because I knew I wouldn't make the second takeout...my legs had no kick left in them. You have NO idea how strong a river is until you are in its pull. You may think you are strong...but trust me...mother nature will bitch slap you EVERY time.
I knew I had to pull my emergency release on my American Rescue vest and quick. For a milli second I thought about losing the board...but then it was like HEELLLOooooo! Let it GO you MORON!
So I pulled the release and the pressure went off my arms and body enough to give me alittle relief. I looked back, and noticed that the board was stuck on the edge pinned behind my feet. Cool I thought. If I could just hold this postion, I could save myself AND the board.
Just then I looked upstream and saw Kev kicking madly for the takeout. With my free hand I helped him from going past me. When he got onshore, he threw me a rope and I made it back on land too. But my board went bye bye. Around the bend and over trout falls. Better it then me.
We were definitely were relieved. All in all it was a fun run. But with Ice & Docta P unnacounted for...it we were anything but stoked. They weren't at the base of Tutia, and they weren't at the take out.
Something BAD happened and chills ran up our spines. I stayed at the take out in case they came by, and Kev hitched a ride from an old couple to the put in spot.
About a half hour later Kev showed up and said Ice was in the car. He comfirmed my fears that something bad indeed happened. Okere falls had turned out to be extremely nasty and held them underwater for an insane amount of time. It was bad folks, and I'll let them tell it from their own perspectives. The silver lining was that they were alive.
When I got to the car Ice was just sitting in the drivers seat, not saying a word. We exchanged looks, and shook hands, but drove back to Docta P at the put in without saying a word.
Docta P was waiting at the put in with a bunch of the local Rotorua firemen. The head guys name was Des, and he was a very animated chap. He was so excited to meet us. Apparrently word was out about some "Crazy Americans" riverboarding the Kaituna at 3 times the normal volume, and he drove down to meet us. Des was a great guy and was particularly interested in our equipment. We hooked him up with one of our boards, and the contact info to help outfit his team in Rotorua for river rescue.
Des had an assistant, a young Maori kid named "T". T knew more about the people and wildlife of NZ then anyone we had met so far. He told us what trees you could get drunk off of by eating the fruit, or how to make a paste from another tree that would numb your mouth if you had a tooth ache. Or even which trees you could make poison darts from. COOL!
When we said our goodbyes, we regrouped and decided to visit Huka to pay our respects. As we drove the shock of what happened gradually gave way to one of relief and commeraderie. We were ALIVE. Laughter started filling the car again.
Like I said earlier, Huka was running at 290. When we arrived, it didn't dissapoint. Huka was MASSIVE. It was absolutely unrunnable at this level. The sheer power was staggering. I thought the kaituna was moving fast...this thing was a blur. Anyone going over Huka at this level would be meeting the choir invisible for sure. I've never seen Niagra Falls, so Huka is my new benchmark now as far as falls go.
We met a guy(another kayaker) from Colorado, who was taking some time off before his master's and living in NZ. So many people we met were doing this. He told us of a great pizza place in town and of a nice natural hotspring to soak in.
So off we went. Pizza was suppose to be rated 3rd best in the world. But my friends...after a life threatening run on big water...ANYTHING tastes good. To me, at that time, it WAS the BEST in the world(even though I knew it wasn't. That honor clearly goes to Joe's on Bleecker in NYC).... But I was that hungry. We ordered two large pies and chowed down.
The hotsprings were nice. There was a slight crowd there. I actually prefered the cooler part...felt good on my sunburned neck.
We soaked for awhile and then left...deciding to make a last minute visit to Aratiatia...another run we were contemplating but didn't get to run. The sun was going down and when we arrived at Aratiatia, we saw another massive run. There was no water in it, because its Dam released...but the canyon was just insane. Full of large towers of rock. I can only imagine what it would look like full of raging whitewater. Its not really mentioned in the guidebooks, because its...well...a suicide run. But it has been run(by kayakers). You just better know what you're doing.
The moon was full that night, and we got some cool shots. We wondered what it would look like flooded again, and then thought that would be a great opening to a DVD. Have the warning sirens blasting...the dam releasing this huge wall of whitewater....then cut to us on the rivers edge wating to jump in. Cool. : )
The next day we were to travel to Queenstown. Goodbye north island.
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